Diary of Ethel Ellen Conybeare, Vol 1


Each page links to the next, and the names are obvious enough you could just type in any address, but for convenience, jump to inside pages. I will attempt to add dates to the links below, perhaps keywords or search terms. Later...
001_inside_cover 1910 March 23 to July 5
002_page1 1910 March 23
left Lethbridge March 17
"these degenerate days"
Jean Pingle
Mrs. Naismith
Mr. Wertheim
Journalist from Yukon
003 Havergal: Miss Turner
Home Musical Club
004 Mischa Elman was playing at the Toronto Symphony Orchestra
005 Bruce first concert
Three hour service at St. Thomas for Good Friday
006 vaudville at The Majestic
Miss Turner
Should not have gone on Easter Eve
007 electric signs on Broadway
eating on deck with Elaine aboard the Carpathia

008 Postcards of The Carpathia
photo of steerage
008.z large scans of Carpathia mid-ocean
009 1910 April 10
"enjoying myself immensely" (must have gotten over mal de mer)
010 touring town of Gibraltar
011 touring Spanish town adjacent to Gibraltar
"brilliantly uniformed customs officers"
012 boat pictures, and Gibraltar pictures
not liking peddlers and beggars
012.z photos of spar-boxing and tug-of-war aboard Carpathia
013 Gibraltar colour postcards
014 1910 April 14
beauties of the Mediterranean waters
015 "The average Canadian knows nothing about foreign races"
"I was at the convent in Lethbridge there were many Hungarian children, and perhaps my ideas that Hungarians were an inferior people had their foundation there"
016 Hungarians aboard the Carpathia
Mr. Winter, consult at Philadelphia
Rudolph Senecovic, fifth officer,
Dr. Stepanos, who is really Servian
017 Americans do not speak English, they speak a mongrel tongue.
Her pictures of these Hungarians
017.z closeup pictures of Hungarians, others aboard the Carpathia
018 colour postcards of Genoa
019 descriptions of Genoa, streets, cemetary
020 Genoa, colour postcard of Ponte Monumentale via XX Septembre
The King's Yacht was in harbour, the Queen's luggage just going aboard
April 14
021 1910 April 15
Arrived Naples
Pension Baker
"farce of going through customs"
022 "Neapolitans are as a rule lazy"
Complaints about beggars
Visited Aquarium
023 Aquarium wonderful
024 1910 April 17
Loved the museum
BW postcard of Via Caracciolo and Villa Municipale
025 Museum statues of Greeks and Romans
026 Museum relics of Pompeii
Admiring preserved loaves of bread
wondering if they had spaghetti
027 BW postcards of museum statues
La Vittoria
028 1910 April 18
Cathedral of San Gennaro
029 Cathedral description
Michaelangelo coffin behind altar
030 Postcard of Cathedral San Gennaro
Bertolini's Hotel for afternoon tea
031 view of Capri 21 miles away
discussion of Baedeker for museums
032 Baedeker is enough detail
Loves her view up Via Carraciolo and the Villa Nazionale from balcony
033 1910 April 23
At Capri now
Mrs Hutton and Joyce with us
Lovely rooms, most of Schweizerhof second story
Amazed by catacombs
034 catacombs of Naples are largest
gruesome skulls and bones
Mother stole one of the bones
035 walk with Elaine marvel at narrow streets
friendly locals
036 dragged on tour by a girl
who did not understand they had no money to pay
037 got some English strangers to come along and pay the girl
038 visited the ocean by going down a cliff at some risk
039 made it home for lunch
went bathing in cold sea in afternoon
040 plans to see Blue Grotto tomorrow
040.z scans of photographs on page 40
family bathing at sea
041 1910 April 25
Saw Blue Grotto with Mother and Mrs Hutton
Cannot describe it, not give photo - pointless
042 leaving Blue Grotto was like leaving a church
043 1910 April 25 (second entry)
hill of Tiberius with Joyce
donkey riding
044 On Tiberius Hill
paid half a franc apiece to watch gaily dressed people dance the Tarantella
045 Hill is 340 metres high, great view
"Ate huge slabs of Tober's"
046 down the hill, racing donkeys
048 not clear where page 47 is
048 has two BW postcards
The Chapel on the Hill of Tiberius with The Hermit on the steps
Castiglione, which looks like Hill of Tiberius
049 1910 April 26
Up to Capri by funicular
small BW postcard of Piazza del Villaggio di Capri
Villa was Only interesting thing
050 climbed Anacapri with Joyce
051 Anacapri climb very hard
finally 50 stories of steps
052 tour of Anacapri by little boy
Small BW postcard of Castello di Barbarossa
053 abandoned guide and regretted it
054 managed to leave area through private property misadventures
055 BW postcard of Isle and Strait of Capri
056 Wee church of San Antonio
057 1910 April 28
BW postcard of Monte Solaro
small postcard of In attesa dell avventore
trip by donkey to the top of Monte Solaro
058 donkey ride description
059 climb up Monte Solaro very steep
060 donkeys were Pasquarella and Rosina
061 view from Tiberio
started down
062 trip down
surprised by cost, paid next day
063 1910 April 29
just enjoying walking the town
064 rented a boat for coastal rowing
065 entered a grotto, scared out by noise
066 duplicate of "page 65" oops
067 explored multiple caves by boat
068 1910 May 1
Left Capri
attended church first
local fishers barely understood the church service
069 back in Naples
touring town, grand marina, Piazza
070 packed and left
charmed by young boy seeing them off at pier
071 arrived Sorrento
Hotel Tamontano
bargaining with taxi
072 1910 May 2
enjoyed Sorrento
sampling local liqueurs, foods

073 Sorrento - shopping, presents
out for a row on ocean, got sick
074 Sorrento post office incredibly frustrating
075 Mrs Hutton fuming at a waiter that "Italian men were the worst in the world"
Mother was better, about the post office making them late
"knows we are older than six"
076 1910 May 3
killed time until rain stopped
drove to Amalfi that afternoon
Saw Marion Crawford villa
077 visit to Duke's palace
1910 May 4
most beautiful drive in the world
cannot believe it until you see it
078 drive to Amalfi
packed with peasants farming, begging, blind beggars
"children chase you with flowers, or sing for macaroni"
079 drive was a horse-drawn carriage
includes excerpt from Longfellow poem about "Amalfi"
080 BW postcard of Amalfi Cathedral
Amalfi Hotel Marine Riviere "not at all bad"
toured the cathedral
081 BW postcard Amalfi Grand Hotel del Cappuccini
Hotel was former monastery, "monks turned out 47 years ago"
"seemed a shame, they had been there 700 years"
082 not impressed by European rail
got out at Pompeii, by luck
083 Pompeii, City of Dead visit
fascinated by preserved shapes of people
084 Picking Poppies in Pompeii
085 1910 May 9
Climbed Vesuvius, start

086 climbing Vesuvius, pulled up by strap
087 stopped halfway up Vesuvius for "most delicious wine I ever tasted"
088 gave up a quarter of the way from the top
089 retired to gate with wine and sister Elaine
watched Mother and Joyce go on up
090 lunch - gave all the meat in their sandwiches to guide, who had only bread
he saved it for his children
091 ran down mountain
met charming family of guide
092 colour postcard "POMPEI CASA DEL VETTII"
three hours in Pompeii
temple of apollo
093 similar colour postcard of Pompeii
BW photo of ruins
judgement hall
094 photos of forum and temple of isis
learning what the Forum was
095 Pompeii - street of abundance
just learned Edward VII was dead
096 photos of Justice Hall and tourists
visiting villas "gorgeous"
097 photos of shrine, street with shops
more villas toured
references to "Last Days of Pompeii" book she'd just read
098 back to Naples
calling at Cooks Travel Service
Sunday morning church service for King

099 church service criticism
1910 May 10
another visit to Bertolini's
Mrs Baker and her son Francis co-tourists
100 1910 May 10 - left Naples for Rome
Arrived at 2PM, Victoria Hotel
Calling at Cook's for mail
101 1910 May 11
looking for Rome tailor to make special white serge suits for Royal Mourning
Also, white suits good for hot Rome
102 1910 May 14
postcard of Roman forum
got Miss Edwards, young English lady, for a guide
103 enjoyed tour and stories of Forum from Miss Edwards
104 touring Roman buildings
introduced to Signor Boni, the "distinguished archaeologist" for Basilica Aemilia
105 Temple of Vesta
two photographs of ruins
106 photo of Rome
tour Temple of Vestal Virgins
107 touring Rome
108 touring Rome
109 BW postcard, Tomb of St. Paul (?)
110 finished at St. Paul's
111 tour of place where St. Paul was beheaded
112 1910 May 15
early service at Trinity, the English Church
113 criticism of church services
114 1910 May 16
drove out to Via Appia
115 BW postcard, Via Appia (guess)
"No one should talk of Rome who has not lived in it for 10 years"
116 1910 May 17
BW Postcard of St. Peter's square
could not pass St. Peter's without going in
117 inside St. Paul's
118 BW postcard inside St. Paul's
description inside St. Paul's
119 discussing church service
120 still more church
121 stories about stuff inside church
122 higher galleries of St. Paul's
123 photo and BW postcards of central Rome
leaving St. Paul's
Vatican Garden
123.z blow-up of photo and postcard of Vatican area
124 Miss Edwards takes them on tour of San Giovanni, first church in Rome
125 photo and postcard of San Giovanni, cloisters
125.z2 blow up of postcard of San Giovanni
126 BW postcard Roma- La scala santa
Visit to Scala Santa and S. Clement
127 BW postcard of Colosseum
walk through Rome, saw Colosseum with Miss Edwards
128 visit to the Colosseum
129 arch of Constantine
BW postcard of arch of Constantine
photo of Colosseum
129.z1 blowup of photo of Colosseum
129.z2 blowup of postcard of Arch of Constantine
130 1910 May 18
Joyce returns to Rome they go for walk, admiring statues, museum
131 postcards of the Dying Gaul, the Dying Gladiator
touring museums
132 more tour of museum
statue of Marsyas
133 colour postcard of S. Bambino di Aracoeli Roma
seeing the carved statue shown in postcard
134 laughing at how bad the doll looks as a religious artifact
135 descriptions of odd stories from the churches
136 visiting tomb of Constantine, now a church
137 1910 May 19
Her 19th Birthday
photo of ruins
Postcard of ruins of Emperor's houses
"I am ashamed to say I am getting rather bored with ruins"
137.z blow up of photo of ruins, probably Palatino
138 full history of Palatino, Domitian's house, Gladiator house
139 had tea with Miss Edwards, lives with aunt, also Miss Edwards
who has a small orphanage for girls at their flat
140 1910 May 20
Missed Memorial service for King Edward VII because suits late
afternoon, Borghese Gallery
141 Admiring Apollo and Daphne at the Borghese
142 More Borghese,
small postcards of the paintings
143 More Borghese paintings, including Titian, Raphael
More small postcards of paintings
144 1910 May 21
Vatican gallery
Venus statue - complaint about prudish Popes dressing it
145 More Vatican
Sarcophagus of Constantine
Small postcards of statues
146 More statues in Vatican
With Miss Edwards
Joke about avoiding statue of Perseus and Medusa's head
147 1910 May 22
Statues - story about Michaelangelo
148 postcard of statue of Minerva she admired
149 Vatican paintings - story of Raphael huge canvas finished after death
150 four small postcards of paintings
Story of piece of True Cross found by woman, kept in Monastery with no women.
151 Medieval paintings of life of Christ
"The most picturesque things(!) in the Vatican are, however, the Swiss Guards"
"who look more like Harlequins in their striped uniforms"
152 afternoon, May 22
story of stolen canvasses recovered by trick
visited cell of St. Dominic
153 full-sized postcard of Porta Bella Basilica Di S. Sabina - Roma
description of door of S. Sabina
Garden of Knights of Malta
154 yet another church
155 Joking, insulting each other
at statue of lion that will bite you if you lie
"Joyce Hutton is a freak"
Church of St. Cecilia
156 Martyrdom story of St. Cecilia
157 The Colosseum by moonlight
"feeling ghostly in our white suits"
158 1910 May 22 (still) "This morning (Sunday)..."
how they went to St. Peter's for Sunday Mass
159 description of Mass at Vatican
160 ERROR: Scan 160 is a duplicate of 158.
161 Finding the Corsini Gallery
162 ERROR: 162 is ANOTHER repeat of 158.
163 ERROR: 163 is a copy of 161. Possibly, no pages lost here, just duplicated.
164 ERROR: 164 yet another repeat of 158
165 ERROR: 165 a second repeat of 161
166 this does pick up after page 165/163/161 apparently no text lost, just duplicated
went to all-male college of priests, asked for rosary to be blessed by Pope
Father O'Gorman, confused, promised to get it done
(I wonder where the Pope-blessed family heirloom wound up..)
Drove to Trinite di Monte to hear the nuns sing Benediction
167 1910 May 25
country picnic trip (Genzano?)
167.z blow up of scan 167 small photo of picnic party
presumably EEC, sister Elaine and Mother
168 24 May 1910, but written next day
Mother to dentist
seeing churches with Elaine
168.z blow-up of picture of Miss Edwards with dog Pat
169 touring churches
170 church of St. Prassed
"painted in a way I could hardly have deemed possible with just three primary colours"
(newspaper colour comics had not yet been invented, 1910?)
171 oldest church in Rome
172 Capacchini Church
Where Monks are buried in consecrated ground from Jerusalem
until space is needed, then their bones become decoration
173 dropped into Pantheon on way to Vatican
174 on to Sistine Chapel, disappointed
pictures so high they are hard to see
175 Visit to Vatican and Sistine ruined by so many chattering tourists
176 drove up Jerusalem Hill, visiting Jewish and Christian shrines
177 more Jerusalem Hill
didn't make it to Trevi Fountain
178 1910 May 26
Made it to Trevi fountain
got tickets to leave Rome
179 1910 May 28
bought postcards, left Rome in 27th
180 train ride to Florence
Jennings-Riccioli Pension
181 Arno river romantic at night
ugly by day
182 poking around Florence
Church of San Michele
stained glass
183 touring churches
184 touring tombs
Galileo monument
185 1910 May 29
touring galleries for free
Ulfizzi Gallery
Postcard BW of painting
186 Ulfizzi rooms of the greats
Da Vinci, Boticelli, Michaelangelo
187 more Ulfizzi, postcare of Madonna painting
188 lost in Florence, came out of Ulfizzi wrong side
189 Colour Postcard, La Facciata della Cattedrale
story of seeing that cathedral
190 singing and priests at cathedral
191 back at pension, planning next 3 days
192 1910 May 30
National Museum
193 National Museum
BW postcard of carved door
194 Monastery of San Marco, now a museum
195 multiple small postcard pictures from museum San Marco
196 ERROR: Duplicate of scan 194
197 ERROR: duplicate of scan 195
198 description of monk cell with amazing art in it
199 more description of museum, monk's cells
200 cell of Savonarola
201 cells of Fra Angelico and San Antonio
passed the Foundling Hospital
202 writing by candlelight
ice cream
more churches
203 1910 May 31
Academy Gallery
great paintings
204 painting discussion
205 Michaelangelo's David
Liked Bernini's David in teh Borghese Gallery more
206 out late afternoon, more churches
207 1910 June 1
Pitti Gallery
hated Titian's Magdalen, Guido's Cleopatra
208 survey of Pitti Gallery
209 afternoon, two churches
S. Maria del Carmine
Santo Spirito
Amazed how beautiful inside, outside is ugly
210 1910 June 4
left Florence afternoon of 2nd
Arrive Venice late night
211 enjoyed night quiet of Venice
hotel via gondola
hated horrid little motorboats, smell of gasoline
212 1910 June 3 went for our first gondola ride
has best picture of them all in Gondola
213 colour postcard of painting of grand canal
touring Venice
214 colour postcard, Piazza San Marco, Venice
touring Venice, stores, glass
215 photos of family in front of San Marcos feeding pigeons
descriptions of plaza, pigeons
216 colour postcard of Venice waterfront
touring Venice
217 colour postcard, Ponte di Rialto
staying at Casa Petarca
just below Rialto
218 1910 June 5
touring Venice on foot with Baedeker in hand
219 Venice church services
220 leaving church at noon
221 afternoon, boat to Island of S.Giorgio
222 colour postcard of Venice waterfront
223 1910 June 6
trying to get her glasses fixed, found watchmaker
224 found jeweller to fix glasses
took a long time, she was not nice about it
toured glass making
225 got glasses fixed
with poor grace about how long it took
226 church of SS Giovanni e Paolo
sacristy awaiting government repair after roof fell in
second church, S. Maria Miracoli - Renaissance

227 BW postcard of Palazzo Ducale
1910 June 7
Doge's Palace
229 Bridge of Sighs was not open even then
Fed Pigeons
Visited S. Giorgio degli Sebauroni
pictures of St. George and the dragon
230 BW photo of their gondolier
who suggested they go to Murano glass works
230.z photo of gondolier
231 Murano glass works
serenata on the S. Marco Canal
loved a shortcut canal
232 1910 June 8
gondolier suggested long ride to S. Lazaro
wrote a letter en route
233 Armenian priest with great English tours them around the Armenian Monastery
of S. Lazaro. Saw Lord Byron's room. Prettiest chapel in Italy
234 S. Lazaro Armenian Monastery tour continues
printing press room
found book translated by F.C. Conybeare, relative
(who'd just "written a book condemning Christianity"?)
235 Lunch at Lido
wandered canals
shocked by "small boys shamelessly disrobing themselves" for a swim
236 evening gondola ride
have their own gondolier at this point, met his kids
picture of some gold coin(?) with Lion of St. Mark
237 1910 June 9
packed and left by train
arrive Milan 7:30
"more like an American city"
"hotel really quite civilized"
238 1910 June 11
cathedral was June 10 "perfect fairyland"
BW postcard of Il Duomo, Milano
239 interior of Il Duomo in Milan
gross statue of flayed St. Bartholomew holding his skin
240 view of Cathedral and town from highest spire
241 "most perfect church I have seen yet"
Left Milan after a hurried lunch
skipped Lucerne, stayed in Basle
nearly out of money
20 cents in their pockets when they hit town
242 arrive Paris the next day
can see Eiffel Tower from their balcony on top floor of pension
243 1910 June 13
Sunday breakfast in rooms
wrote letters, took to Cooks
shopping, white dress (another?)
inspired to speak from French
244 1910 June 15
Visited Louvre June 14
wowed by size
245 BW postcard of Mona Lisa
admiring various paintings
246 BW postcard of Da Vinci's Saint Jean-Baptiste
more painting admiration
except Italians, having seen better in Italy
247 BW postcard Andrea del Sarto, "Sainte-Familie"
description of actual painting
248 BW postcard Guido Reni, "La Madeleine"
"I was rather disgusted with the Cleopatra in the Pitti Gallery"
249 BW postcard of Murillo "La Conception Immaculee"
description of that painting
250 BW Postcard Murillo "Le jeune mendiant"
Description of same
Mentions of other rooms, British school, Rembrandt
251 BW postcard, COROT "Jean-Baptiste"
Much more painting description
252 BW Postcard, Troyon "Boeufs se rendant au Labour"
"lovely sky and weird lighting from the back"
253 finished Louvre
today (June 15) went to see the Madeleine church

254 1910 June 16
took day off from sightseeing, Mother in bed
"Today begins Coventry at Havergal"
"three months since we left Lethbridge"
1910 June 18
Luxembourg Gallery
255 BW postcard from Luxembourg: Jean Dampt "Saint Jean"
was her favourite sculpture, so natural
256 BW postcard, Antonin Injalbert, "Hippomene"
described statues
257 BW postcard Emmanuel Fremiet "Pan et Ours"
BW postcard Antonin Horac "Mercure inventant le Caducee"
258 BW postcard, Luxembourg, CORMON "Cain"
description of that painting
259 BW postcard PUVIS DE CHAVANNES "Pauvre Pecheur"
BW postcard PAUL CHABA "Au Crepuscule"
was taken by both paintings
260 BW Postcard L. BONNAT "Job"
kept copy because picture was "so horrible"
261 BW Postcard BOUGUEREAU "La Vierse Consolatrice"
Liked that Mary was not happy looking
262 BW Postcard WATTEAU "Le Pierrot de Gild"
back to the Louvre description of Watteau
263 BW Postcard, Louvre, DELAROCHE "La Jeune Martyre"
wondered why artists copy portraits of ugly people
264 BW Postcard, Louvre, DAVID "Sacre de Napoleon"
Napoleon's coronation, described
265 BW Postcard, Louvre, PRUDHON "La Justice et la Vengeance"
description of paintings
266 BW postcard, M. Le Brun, "Mole Raymond" (Comedie Francais)
"portraits are the most interesting"
267 BW Postcard, "sweet faced girl with the broken pitcher"
268 BW postcard J.B. GREUZE "Jeune fille a L'oiseau"
"very sweet"
269 BW Postcard LEBRUN "l'Auteur et de sa Fille"
BW Postcard SCHEFFER "St. Auguste et Ste Marie"
270 BW Postcard RENI "Saint Sebastien"
Americans taking tour with guide are eavesdropped on
271 not impressed by Americans
272 BW Postcard, west door of Notre Dame
description of Notre Dame
273 Notre Dame
Afternoon, went to Monmartre Sacre Coeur
274 COLOUR Postcard of Funiculaire du Sacre Coeur
climbed all the steps instead
275 appreciated choir at Holy Trinity
276 1910 June 22
Could not find Nan Miller in Paris
277 shopping and dressmakers in Paris
278 disputes over 1 franc cabfare
279 1910 June 25
could not see "The Salon", the King of Bavaria was visiting
rained out on Napoleon's Tomb. Went to Invalides and Dome.
280 BW postcard of Invalides
greatly admired Invalides
281 Theatre Manguy(?) with underdressed ladies
Off to London the next day, Lonsdale Hotel
Letters waiting
282 1910 June 26
could not unpack, temporary quarters
two hours with "stupid cabby" finding Newington Rectory,
found cousin James Conybeare, eldest son of the "head of the family".
has a "nervous Conybeary manner"
283 James Conybeare said his father is fond of new cousins
We may be invited down to Cambridge
"The father is a clergyman, too, of course".
284 1910 June 29
Saw Frances Harris at church
Hippodrome, disappointed in theatre, loved Russian Dancers
doing "Lac des Cygnes".
285 after Hippodrome, went to see Cyril Maude and Marie Lohr in "Tantalizing Tommy", "simply splendid"
Next day, met "Dad's old nurse, Tatty".
286 1910 June 30
British Museum with Mrs Hutton and Joyce
Disappointed by Elgin Marbles, since they'd "seen it all" in Italy
Lunch with cousin James and his new wife, no name.
287 after lunch, cousin James took them to Lambeth Palace
pretty complete tour of residence of Archbishop of Canterbury

288 across Lambeth Bridge to the Abbey
wanted to see Westminster School "Where Dad and his brothers were educated"
289 could not see Westminster School, class in session
visited Westminster Abbey
BW Postcard of Westminster Abbey from S.E.
290 colour postcard of inside of Westminster Abbey
much admiration for the beauties of the Abbey
291 BW postcard of Poet's Corner in Westminster Abbey
didn't have enough time for all the poking around she wanted
292 BW postcard of Henry VIII chapel, Westminster Abbey
admired various celebrity tombs
293 BW postcard of Coronation Chair Westminster Abbey
much more description of Abbey
294 finishing descriptions of Abbey
Evening, saw Gertrude Elliot in "The Dawn of To-morrow"
295 1910 July 2
Yesterday afternoon, July 1, met more cousins
Dad's Aunt Georgie, "dear old thing"
Cousin Kitty
Colonel Alec Pringle and sister Maggie
Grannie's niece Maude Newport
third installment, Alison "daughter of the head of the family"
(still no name!) "who is married to a clergyman called McCormick"
296 Clara Hudson and Miss Cole-Baker from Havergal met at Huttons
London Zoo
picnic lunch
297 1910 July 5
with Charlie Scott to the Temple Church
wonderful choir, loved the old ceremony
298 choir boys of the Temple Church are picked from over the world
given an education just to get their voices
299 inside cover some quotes and poetry.
300 addresses for Havergal pals (at a guess)